Mungo National Park

Arumpo Road

Day one

This was going to be our second attempt at Mungo. We had intended to go to Mungo last year but had to cancel on account of half the park being under water from flooding. All was looking forward to the trip, although none of us were looking forward to the early start or the long drive. According to Google map it was going to take 11 hours from Melbourne, but from experience this didn’t seem correct. Experience was right on this occassion. 

Our first decision was to determine whether we could fit all our gear into one car, and after loading the first two persons' gear in, it was clear this was going to be impossible, unless my car had tardis like abilities. Alas this was not the case so we resorted to two vehicles. This also meant the travel hair dryer could come along on the trip which pleased everyone except me.

Before we even left home we got lost on our way to our meeting point in Port Melbourne, so this was a shaky start on account of my trusty navigator and my driving. We put this down to the twists and turns of the area in addition to lack of caffeine. Eventually we made it to our meeting point, a few minutes late. First stop was coffee to get everyone awake at a local coffee shop.

Our drive to Mungo was via the Calder Highway, but it wasn’t long before we had to make toilet stops. Based on the current toilet stop trend it was going to be a long drive so the toilet stop rule was initiated. We attempted to see how long we could drive until we couldn’t hold any longer, and it was remarkable to see how mind can overcome body if required, although I was worried that someone might not be able to control themselves. Luckily this person was in the second car, so my car was safe. 

There are two access points to Mungo from Mildura, either via Arumpo Road which was a 110 km drive along mostly dirt track, or via Top Hut Road just south of Poncarrie which would require a longer detour (approximately 180km) but only 60km on dirt road. This time around we decided to try out the Arumpo Road way and fortunately for us this turned out to be the more efficient route, saving us about an hour’s drive. The road conditions on Arumpo were actually similar to the dirt road on Top Hut, only a longer stretch. 

We eventually made it to Mungo late in the afternoon and looked forward to some booze and a rest. During our unpacking it became evident that disaster had struck – I had left one of my bottles of wine at home sitting in the fridge. I was thinking how am I going to survive with just one bottle of wine and two beers for three nights. By that stage I told my friends that I was going to be relying on their kind hospitality and bottles of wine.

Day two

Our plan for today was to do the 60km circuit around Mungo. First stop was the Walls of China. Upon arriving there, to my surprise I discovered that access to the Walls are now restricted beyond the viewing platform. The reason provided for limiting access was to prevent further erosion, and it was clear that since my last visit about five months ago there had been extensive damage to the area, mainly due to the extensive rainfall. It just goes to show how mother nature can be such a powerful force, and makes me wonder if climate change is a contributing factor.

After the Walls of China we visited various sites along the circuit. On this occasion I had decided to bring along my boogie board to do some sand surfing at Vigars Well. I wasn’t sure if it was going to work but it did! The hardest part though was climbing back up the soft sand. After a bit of sun baking and more exploring we headed back to where we were staying.

60 km circuit

Walls of China April 2012

Walls of China December 2011

Sand surfing at Vigars Well

 

Day three

A few of us had decided to get up before sunrise and drive to the Walls of China again to see the sun rise. Even though it was going to be difficult getting up so early and trying to not wake others, we were hoping that it was going to be worth the effort. My buddies had warned me the night before I would be in big trouble if I woke them so I had to be as quiet as possible. Luckily I succeeded in this so they were able to have their beauty sleep, which was evident upon my return. Sunrise at Mungo is such a special time not only in terms of the softer light but also being such a sacred and special place for the indigenous people who have a long connection to the land. It was actually here at Mungo that Mungo man and Mungo woman were discovered, believed to have existed about 60,000 years ago.

Later on in the day we had decided to join a discovery tour by the Parks Discovery rangers which allowed us access onto the Walls and provided us with a better history and understanding of the place. This tour is definitely recommended as it gives participants a better appreciation of the story and people that used to inhabit Mungo. The tour also included information on the various edible bush tucker available, including the bush tomatoes that grew on the saltbushes. We were blessed with a rendition by one of the guides at the conclusion of the tour.  

Sunrise at Walls of China

Saltbush with edible tomatoes