Mt Stirling Snow Camp – September 2012

Day One

Our weekend trip to Mount St Gwinear came unstuck the day before on account of the severe storm that hit the area leading to road closure. The ranger said there was no chance that the access road would be cleared of the fallen trees in time. This then necessitated plan B to swing into action, where we decided to head to Mt Stirling, situated next to Mt Buller instead. 

I was hoping for a lazy late start but Miss Take a Photo at Every Opp convinced us to start earlier, much earlier. In the end I’m glad that we did, as the drive to Mt Stirling took a lot longer than expected as we had decided to take the Hume Highway and turn off at Benalla. This added at least 20 minutes extra to the drive, so in retrospect, it was faster to go via Tallarook and Yea, even though it was slightly windy. It would have also been faster had Mr Car Developer drove all the way, but alas it was only part of the way.

The turn off to Mt Stirling is just after the toll gates to Mt Buller. Unfortunately we still had to pay the resort entrance and overnight parking fee even though we weren’t headed there. Mt Stirling was reached after 9km on an easy dirt road from the toll gate. We arrived at Telephone Box Junction, where ski patrol and the main car park were located. 

After a delicious pork roll lunch thanks to Miss Marathon the six of us set off on our Yowies, aka snow shoes. They were easy to fit and didn’t take too long to get used to. Our destination was Bluff Spur Hut, approximately 5.5km away, via Bluff Spur Trail. The track was covered in snow, although initially slushy, improved to powder as we climbed higher. Unfortunately the weather wasn’t great and was coming down as snow showers. 

Start of trail

The Yowies

Our party were comprised of Miss Take a Photo at Every Opp, Miss Marathon, Mr Lost Duck from Nepal (aka our doctor who did look like a duck), Mr Car Developer and Mr Sushi Chef. After 5 minutes of walking Mr Lost Duck from Nepal was already streaking ahead, and if not careful would become a lost duck in Stirling. Walking in snow shoes and soft snow was more difficult than expected and it was 2.5 hours later that we arrived at Bluff Spur Hut. We decided to spend the night here. 

Our tents

 

One of the camping gear I was keen to test out was my Aldi sleeping bag which was apparently rated extreme, down to - 15 degrees C. I had no expectation that it would be suitable at that temperature and after a cold night’s sleep that was proven. The sleeping bag is more likely rated a comfortable zero degrees, and anything below that would be a challenge. It was clear the – 5 degrees we had was too much of a challenge for the bag.

 

Day Two

After an uncomfortable cold sleep we awoke to a beautiful sunny day. Our plan was to climb the summit, only a short climb away. Unfortunately Mr Sushi Chef and Miss Take a Photo at Every Opp had to leave early. We did have the pleasure of enjoying Mr Sushi’s yummy dinner and was super grateful for the wine he bought along. 

The climb to the summit was only 10 minutes up. We had stunning, clear and sunny sky when we got to the top. We didn’t want to leave, and if snow camping was like this, we would definitely come back for more. Mt Buller was visible, although the runs were starting to become patchy and was looking well past its best. 

Climbing to summit of Mt Stirling

Snowgums, my favourite tree!

 

After a morning snack we headed back to Telephone Box Junction, which took 1.5 hours all the way down. By the time we got down towards the bottom leg, the snow had melted significantly, with the track un-walkable on the Yowies. The take away lessons was that my Aldi sleeping bag didn’t live up to its – 15 degrees rating, but more importantly snow camping in good weather was ace and should be repeated. 

Wilson's Promontory Lighthouse Hike - June 2012

Day one

Our planned trip to the much anticipated 48km lighthouse circuit started with arriving at the Prom on Friday evening. On the way to our basic cabins in Tidal River we called into someone’s house in Yanakie after we had spotted flames coming out of their chimney. Luckily the owners were home and were aware of the issue. We were tired after arriving late at our destination so it was off to an early bed for everyone.

Day two

Our plan today was to get up early and commence our hike no later than 9.30am to allow enough time for the expected 6-7 hour walk to the lighthouse. Due to the storm damage in 2011 the circuit to the lighthouse took a much longer route than the norm. The walk today would commence at Tidal River and take us through Oberon Bay along the coastline, then heading inland east to Telegraph Junction, south to Half Way Hut, Roaring Meg and then south east to the Lighthouse.

After sorting our gear, and registering at the Ranger’s office we headed off. There was no chance we would not be spotted from a kilometre away on account of a team member wearing a bright yellow top (Mr Canary) which matched the bright sunshine we had. Suffice to say some of us decided to not walk too close to this person in case others thought we were associated with this hiking faux pas.

We stopped for a snack break at beautiful Little Oberon Bay with its white sandy beach. Although some of us were tempted to swim we didn’t have the time to linger. Upon arriving at Oberon Bay we had to find a way to cross a creek. Mr Canary found a way across without us having to take our boots off. After a 10 minute walk along the beach we got to Oberon Bay campsite which was sheltered with numerous camping spots. Only water available though was from a brackish creek which didn’t look tempting. 

Oberon Bay

We now headed east along a wide sandy track to Telegraph Junction. The track from Telegraph Junction onwards was on a four wheel drive road which was hard on the feet. All were glad to make it to Halfway Hut for a well earned rest and toilet break, but we were only half way. You could camp at Halfway Hut as there is a rainwater tank, toilet and enough camp sites for a few tents. 

Halfway Hut

The walk from the Hut to Roaring Meg was non eventful on numerous hills. At Roaring Meg we decided to take the detour and follow the short cut off the main road. This track saved about 10-15 minutes to the walk and is worth the detour as the trail is on softer ground and within denser forests. Unfortunately the detour trail wasn’t very long and soon we were back on the four wheel track. Not long after there is a turn off to the Lighthouse. If you miss the turnoff you end up after about 300 metres or so at a shed and dead end. After back tracking we found the south east turn off. By now we all had enough of the walk and were wondering how much longer it was going to be.

Mr Canary lived up to his namesake and was starting to fade (just like in the mines), which was a sign that all were getting tired, except Miss Surprise Package who lead most of the way. Miss Marathon (aka poncho woman) still had lots of energy in the tank as she was only nearing the half way mark of a marathon. We were on the last stretch so all put in a last ditch effort for the last few kilometres until we arrived at the end which was preceded by two steep climbs that nearly broke the camel’s back. By now Mr Canary had relinquished his heavy pack containing Congac, wine, percolator and Jasper Fairtrade coffee to Miss French, who still have enough in reserve for another climb. We had also lost Miss Take a Photo at Every Opp somewhere along the way.

At about 5pm when the sun was about to set we arrived at the Lighthouse and our accommodation. Luckily we had the whole house to ourselves which made it more relaxed. The place was very clean, spacious and had amazing views of the cliffs and coastline. 

Our accommodation

Day three

We all woke early to join the 8am tour of the lighthouse provided by the caretaker. After this it was time to pack up and head back home. By now the weather started to drizzle and we all had wished that we had another day to rest and laze about. Miss Surprise Package was even willing to pay a handsome sum of money to be helicoptered back to Tidal River, but unfortunately the helicopter only made visits to the Lighthouse twice a year, and this was not one of those times.

  

View from the top of the lighthouse

 

The walk back was accompanied by rain, showers, wind and leaches. Miss Marathon somehow managed to collect a family of leaches throughout the walk back. Miss Take a Photo at Every Opp decided it was better today to put effort into the walk instead of a good photo shot. We were all thankful to arrive at Halfway Hut for a lunch stop under shelter which was just vacated by a group of schoolies. After a few swigs of extra Congac to warm our bellies we were on our way.

Upon arriving at our creek crossing again at Oberon Bay we had discovered the river had swelled. We managed to cross by using a plank to improvise as a bridge. By now all were tired, wet and ready to receive massages from strangers. We eventually made it back to Tidal River at 4.45pm under pouring rain and then a long drive back home. 

The lighthouse

Sea Kayaking

This was going to be my first sea kayaking experience so I was a little apprehensive about it given I am not a strong swimmer and that the kayaks are not that stable. Nevertheless this was something I had to accomplish if I was going to do this in Antarctica. I knew that this was going to be the first of many trips to get my ability to a level where I would be confident and capable of safely doing this in the big icy sea. 

Getting ready

 

The sea kayak experience started with learning the basic strokes, such as paddling forward in an efficient manner, stopping, turning, going backwards, going sideways and support strokes to prevent capsizing. I didn’t realise there were so many different types of strokes, and this was just the basics. After learning this, it was onto practising rolling under water and getting out of the skirt whilst upside down. This was something I wasn’t looking forward to and my heart was beating fast. If I was on dry land I would also have felt my sweaty palms. I could feel a certain level of anxiety but knew that this was part of the experience and that it would past.

Support stroke to prevent capsizing

Getting back in assisted

As part of learning to get out of the kayak whilst underwater, we also learnt how to get back in assisted and unassisted. Doing it unassisted is extremely difficult requiring lots of balance and patience, something I haven’t yet learnt. I had seen on Youtube about eskimo rolls where you would right your kayak up whilst still inside unassisted. The instructor said this would normally take about 2 years to learn, time that I didn’t have. By the end of the day I was tired and somewhat seasick but feeling exhilarated and a lot less anxious. It’s amazing how having classes and practice makes such a huge difference.  

After learning all the basics, our first open water paddle was going to be out to Half Moon Bay to where the Cerberus is situated. The Cerberus is a British warship which was scuttled in 1926 to form a breakwater. On the day we did this, we had around half a metre swells and 10 knot winds, equivalent to 18.5km per hour.

This was a paddle where I got to lead the group, even though I had no idea where the sunken ship and various hidden reefs were. I had no idea why they choose me to do this given I have no experience whatever in this - I was hoping that this wouldn't turn out to be a big mistake on their behalf. The planning and leading aspects were very similar to hike trips, where you had to be prepared, such as; making sure you leave details about your trip intentions with others before setting off, checking the weather, ensuring you have the right emergency equipment, determine an appropriate route, look out for various landmarks along the way, check on your companions and be aware of what’s in front of you. 

 

On the way back we practiced how to tie the kayaks together and tow in the event that one of the paddlers was injured and unable to paddle. It was fun being towed, but not so much doing the towing. All up the kayaking was lots of fun and hopefully a forward step to what will be a scary and memorable journey. One of the most exciting thing I learnt was that you could incorporate kayaking with camp trips, but this will have to come later.

Towing

Mungo National Park

Arumpo Road

Day one

This was going to be our second attempt at Mungo. We had intended to go to Mungo last year but had to cancel on account of half the park being under water from flooding. All was looking forward to the trip, although none of us were looking forward to the early start or the long drive. According to Google map it was going to take 11 hours from Melbourne, but from experience this didn’t seem correct. Experience was right on this occassion. 

Our first decision was to determine whether we could fit all our gear into one car, and after loading the first two persons' gear in, it was clear this was going to be impossible, unless my car had tardis like abilities. Alas this was not the case so we resorted to two vehicles. This also meant the travel hair dryer could come along on the trip which pleased everyone except me.

Before we even left home we got lost on our way to our meeting point in Port Melbourne, so this was a shaky start on account of my trusty navigator and my driving. We put this down to the twists and turns of the area in addition to lack of caffeine. Eventually we made it to our meeting point, a few minutes late. First stop was coffee to get everyone awake at a local coffee shop.

Our drive to Mungo was via the Calder Highway, but it wasn’t long before we had to make toilet stops. Based on the current toilet stop trend it was going to be a long drive so the toilet stop rule was initiated. We attempted to see how long we could drive until we couldn’t hold any longer, and it was remarkable to see how mind can overcome body if required, although I was worried that someone might not be able to control themselves. Luckily this person was in the second car, so my car was safe. 

There are two access points to Mungo from Mildura, either via Arumpo Road which was a 110 km drive along mostly dirt track, or via Top Hut Road just south of Poncarrie which would require a longer detour (approximately 180km) but only 60km on dirt road. This time around we decided to try out the Arumpo Road way and fortunately for us this turned out to be the more efficient route, saving us about an hour’s drive. The road conditions on Arumpo were actually similar to the dirt road on Top Hut, only a longer stretch. 

We eventually made it to Mungo late in the afternoon and looked forward to some booze and a rest. During our unpacking it became evident that disaster had struck – I had left one of my bottles of wine at home sitting in the fridge. I was thinking how am I going to survive with just one bottle of wine and two beers for three nights. By that stage I told my friends that I was going to be relying on their kind hospitality and bottles of wine.

Day two

Our plan for today was to do the 60km circuit around Mungo. First stop was the Walls of China. Upon arriving there, to my surprise I discovered that access to the Walls are now restricted beyond the viewing platform. The reason provided for limiting access was to prevent further erosion, and it was clear that since my last visit about five months ago there had been extensive damage to the area, mainly due to the extensive rainfall. It just goes to show how mother nature can be such a powerful force, and makes me wonder if climate change is a contributing factor.

After the Walls of China we visited various sites along the circuit. On this occasion I had decided to bring along my boogie board to do some sand surfing at Vigars Well. I wasn’t sure if it was going to work but it did! The hardest part though was climbing back up the soft sand. After a bit of sun baking and more exploring we headed back to where we were staying.

60 km circuit

Walls of China April 2012

Walls of China December 2011

Sand surfing at Vigars Well

 

Day three

A few of us had decided to get up before sunrise and drive to the Walls of China again to see the sun rise. Even though it was going to be difficult getting up so early and trying to not wake others, we were hoping that it was going to be worth the effort. My buddies had warned me the night before I would be in big trouble if I woke them so I had to be as quiet as possible. Luckily I succeeded in this so they were able to have their beauty sleep, which was evident upon my return. Sunrise at Mungo is such a special time not only in terms of the softer light but also being such a sacred and special place for the indigenous people who have a long connection to the land. It was actually here at Mungo that Mungo man and Mungo woman were discovered, believed to have existed about 60,000 years ago.

Later on in the day we had decided to join a discovery tour by the Parks Discovery rangers which allowed us access onto the Walls and provided us with a better history and understanding of the place. This tour is definitely recommended as it gives participants a better appreciation of the story and people that used to inhabit Mungo. The tour also included information on the various edible bush tucker available, including the bush tomatoes that grew on the saltbushes. We were blessed with a rendition by one of the guides at the conclusion of the tour.  

Sunrise at Walls of China

Saltbush with edible tomatoes

Mungo National Park Shearer's Quarters

Summary:	Hostel style clean and affordable accommodation.
Date of visit:	April 2012
Access:	Arumpo Road (1.5 hours on dirt road from Mildura) or Top Hut Road south of Poncarrie (2.5 hours from Mildura). Arumpo Road access is the recommended road. Both access roads can get muddy if wet. Check with Parks first.
Remoteness:	8 hours drive from Melbourne (via Arumpo Road).
Water:	Drinking water in kitchen and visitor centr.
Camp sites:	Camping available at other sites within park.
Toilets:	Communal flush toilets and showers. Hot water is intermittent, dependent on gas pressure.
Comments:	Shearer’s quarters have 5 hostel style rooms, all with air conditioning/heating. Rooms 1 and 2 have three single bunk beds. Rooms 3 and 4 have a double and two single bunk beds. Room 5 is smaller with a double and single bunk on top (sleeps 3). Cost is $30 per person per night and whole room can be booked out for cost of $50 per night.

Outdoor area